If you've been trawling through Instagram and searching online for patterns over the last few years you'll have spotted that there are some fantastic clothing patterns being produced all around the world. Not all are available to buy as paper copies in the UK, but you can often purchase a PDF download version instead. 

Traditionally, this meant printing off the pattern onto many sheets of A4 paper on your home printer and taping them all together - laborious! Plus printer paper is very stiff, which isn't ideal for pinning to fabric. For these reasons we wouldn't recommend using patterns made with printer paper to 'tissue fit' the pattern to your body to get the right fit prior to cutting in fabric. On top of the stiffness of the paper, parts can gape where taped, and getting your printer to print at the right scale can be tricky (TIP: choose 100% rather than fit to page). All over, not a fun process!

The great news is that now copy shops will print your pattern onto one large A0 size sheet, hurrah! But what on earth is 'A0' (i.e. A-zero) size paper? Well, it's 16 x A4 (and measures 84.1cm x 118.9 cm) - so you get to avoid taping ALL these together:

The printer we love using to print PDF patterns, specialises solely in printing sewing patterns - they are Fabulosew - Fabulosew.co.uk. They use a lovely quality tissue paper, enabling you to tissue-fit your pattern before cutting in fabric. They will post it to your door neatly folded in an envelope in a couple of days. Best of all, it's not expensive. 

To find out how much your pattern will cost to print, you'll need to look at your PDF pattern notes to see whether it is 1x A0 sheet size or more. Our Coatigan PDF pattern is 2x A0, for example, as it's a knee length coat-cardi with a large shawl collar - so that takes up some paper. This is what the pattern will look like but on tissue paper (this is the original we created and had made into a PDF hence it being on thicker paper):

And here is the tissue version:

We recently ran a jacket making course and the patterns were 3xA0. A top might just be 1x A0. In the case of multiple A0 patterns, Fabulosew will print your patterns on several sheets. Sometimes the garment pattern pieces are longer than A0, like the 2xA0 size Dungaree pattern we use on our Dungarees Making Courses. In this case Fabulosew include joining marks, so you know where to stick the two tissue sheets together (just one edge to join rather than 16-32 edges or more when printing at home!). They also do 'oversize' printing, where patterns are wider than A0. For example VikiSews pdf patterns are 900mm wide. The pattern company will note that you need oversized printing. Vikisews say 'You will need a plotter printer that can print at least 900mm width' on the selling page of their patterns.

So when you're ordering at fabulosew.co.uk, you put in the number of A0 sheets your pattern is first, then scroll down to enter the number of copies of the pattern you would like. You probably only want one unless you're running sewing workshops like us!

Have a browse of PDF sewing patterns at fellow sewing school Guthrie Ghani here, or do a web search for PDF sewing patterns.

When you're ready to have it printed head over to Fabulosew.co.uk to print your pattern.

Once you have your pattern, if you need help deciding which size to make and a hand fitting it to perfection before cutting your lovely fabric, we can help! Our Stitch! General Sewing & Clothes Making Classes are on most days and will help you get your garment fitted and sewn just right - more details of the classes here.

Happy sewing all!

Sadly this is the last week of my Sewing Bee Blog as I'm heading off on a field trip abroad where I can't get BBC at all..booo! However, our friends over at Sew Essential are running a blog and emails following the Bees for the whole series - join them here. They sell a fantastic range of patterns and fabric too.
Hope to see you in a sewing class soon! All the best, Claire x

17th May 2022

THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE - EPISODE 3 

Written by Claire Nilles, Marketing Assistant at Sew In Brighton Sewing School and Improver level self-taught sewer

For anyone new to this blog post, Sewing Bee has nothing to do with bees but as you may have guessed it has everything to do with sewing! Just like last week (you can find the second blog post here), I will be recapping this week’s episode and giving you some ideas of how to try the different challenges at home - or you can bring them to our ‘Stitch! General Sewing/Dressmaking Classes - any level/project’.

If you are wondering where and when the Sewing Bees sew - the show airs every Wednesday at 9pm on BBC1.

SUMMER WEEK 

We are back with this week’s blog post! Wondering what’s on the menu this week? Flowers have started to blossom, BBQs have been pulled out of the shed, it’s SUMMER! The Sewing Bees channelled and celebrated everything summer on this week’s episode.

1. THE PATTERN CHALLENGE - Shirred Midi Dress

This week’s task was to make a shirred midi dress as depicted in the picture above. Esme Young (one of the judges) gave clear instructions: pig puff sleeves, the body needs to be shirred (more on shirring below!). The sleeves should be gathered and the dress should be midi length. A tip given here by Patrick Grant: it is important to choose fabric appropriate to the season and to take into consideration how the fabric will look once it’s shirred. The idea is to use lightweight fabric that will gather nicely. The Sewing Bees were given 3.5 hours to work their magic! 

The whole shape of the body is coming from the tension within the elastic on the shirred section. 

Now the question that some of you might have is: what is shirring?

So you essentially sew with elastic on the bobbin underneath and thread in the needle on top.  As you are sewing it gathers the fabric up, making the fabric elasticated - so you can stretch it out again when wearing it. It is very important to get the tension right here, use a long stitch (stitch length 4), sew the rows of shirring straight with the spacing even.

The front and back pieces are gathered with 15 lines of parallel shirring. This body is then sewn together at the side seams. The bottom part is sewn together and an elastic is inserted at the waist (which is a bit tricky as you might end up sewing on the elastic which takes the stretchiness away).

The sleeves are shirred at the cuffs and elastic is attached at the shoulder and as a final step they are attached to the body. 

Sounds very straight forward, let’s see what the Sewing Bees got up to?

Wearing matching puffed sleeves to this week’s first challenge, the shirred midi dress was right up Brogan’s alley. 

Man Yee is tricking the system by using fabric that has already got straight lines. Clever! This definitely helped her get some straight shirring on the body part done by just following the lines.

The Sewing Bees quickly realised that if the tension on your sewing machine isn’t high enough, the result will be no shirring… Some had their tension on 7!

If you are reading this and wondering how on earth to adjust tension and stitch length, you sound like a candidate for our Learn to Use a Sewing Machine course, on which you will learn these and all the other essentials of machine sewing! You can learn the same in Stitch Classes - we can also show you how to do shirring in Stitch Classes - more ideas on this below.

End results of the first challenge - 10 Shirred midi dresses:

Here are some of their dresses close-up:

Brogan’s dress.                     Angela’s dress.

Cristian’s dress.

Who clinched gold this week? It’s Brogan, of course :) 

Now onto the fun bit, some patterns that you can use to sew your very own shirred midi dresses at home or in some of our ‘Stitch! General Sewing/Dressmaking Classes - any level/project’ at the Sew In Brighton classroom in Hove. Contact us if you need help working out how many classes to book for your project/pattern.

PATTERNS:

The patterns for these 3 different dresses can be found here:

https://www.sewessential.co.uk/misses-dresses-mccalls-pattern-m7946 

Here is another one:

https://www.sewessential.co.uk/misses-dress-with-shirred-bodice-simplicity-pattern-9141

Or if you prefer to make a jumpsuit:

https://www.sewessential.co.uk/misses-womens-dresses-jumpsuit-mccalls-pattern-8209 

General tips when applying the shirring technique:

• Use cotton mix fabric, fairly lightweight - you can get in a wide range of colours at Sew Essentials website

• You will need some shirring elastic, which you can get in either black or white,

• as well as ordinary polyester or cotton sewing thread.

TIP HERE:

Don’t try and wind the bobbin in the usual way with the sewing machine, but hand wind the shirring elastic onto the bobbin making sure you don't stretch the elastic as you wind it!

Also:

Make your stitch length longer than usual, stitch length 4 and you may also need to adjust the tension. Test on scraps of your fabric until you are happy with the results.

You don’t need to push or pull the fabric, just let elastic do its job and sew in the normal way.

NEXT UP:

2. THE TRANSFORMATION CHALLENGE 

This week the Sewing Bees had to turn old hammocks into adults’ summer garments. Additionally they were given fringing, rope and macrame they had to work incorporate into their very own designs.

Here are some inspirations from the Bees on how to transform your old hammock that’s been lying in back garden shed, into a nice garment:

Angela’s winning macrame dress.     Cristian’s festival summer jacket.

Annie’s beach dress and Brogan’s jumpsuit.

3. THE MADE-TO-MEASURE CHALLENGE - SUMMER TWO-PIECE

A trousered co-ord - a matching top and bottom, is the idea for this week’s made-to-measure challenge. The Sewing Bees were given five hours to perfectly fit their garments onto the given models. The challenge involved coordination in fabric and the way the two pieces looked.

And here are some of the results:

Steve’s tropical beach co-ord.

Gill’s shell top co-ord.

Debras’ sailing co-ord.

Brogan’s Spanish inspired summer co-ord.

Marni’s ribbed crop top co-ord.

Pretty much any top and bottom sewing patterns could become a Co-ord outfit if sewn in the same fabric. In fact, you could even use a stretch fabric top and non stretch bottom half in the same print if you buy your fabric from online fabric printing companies who print a variety of prints (including your own!) onto a range of different fabrics in small quantities - try Prinfab, Contrado or Spoonflower. 

Sew in Brighton classes:

In case you are thinking of making your own two-piece, transforming some old hammock into a popping summer dress or making a garment from scratch following a pattern, you can find us in Hove and book your sewing class online. See you there!

A new blog post will follow each week’s episode of the Great British Sewing Bee, so stay tuned for some more content and sewing inspiration!

See you next week and until then sew, sew away….

Browse Sewing and Dressmaking Courses and Classes here: (https://www.sewinbrighton.co.uk/viewclasses)

Browse free sewing tips and tutorials here: (https://www.sewinbrighton.co.uk/viewclasses/cat_1650825-Video-Lessons-Advice-Sessions.html)

8th May 2022

THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE - EPISODE 2 

Written by Claire Nilles, Marketing Assistant at Sew In Brighton Sewing School and Improver level self-taught sewer

For anyone new to this blog post, Sewing Bee has nothing to do with bees but as you may have guessed it has everything to do with sewing! Just like last week (you can find the first blog post here), I will be recapping this week’s episode and giving you some ideas of how to try the different challenges at home - or you can bring them to our ‘Stitch! General Sewing/Dressmaking Classes - any level/project’.

If you are wondering where and when the Sewing Bees sew away - the show is on every Wednesday at 9pm on BBC1.

Source: https://www.thegreatbritishsewingbee.co.uk/  These are the 2 judges (left: Esme Young, right: Patrick Grant) and the moderator and comedian Sara Pascoe (middle).

SPORTS WEEK

Episode 2 was all about SPORTS. You might think this only relates to this week’s theme but some consider sewing as a high-intensity sport! If you ask Sewing Bee Man Yee, she will tell you that she sweated more during the first challenge than during any other sports… So, be ready to get down and sweaty to take on this week’s challenge of sports shoe making 😅

1. THE PATTERN CHALLENGE - A pair of high top trainers

This week kicked off with the Sewing Bees having to make a pair of high top trainers from scratch. Btw this has been a ‘first-ever’ on the show! Have any of you ever tried to make a pair of high tops? Personally, I have never even thought about sewing my own shoes but would give it a go now 😁

So the candidates were given a pattern, some fabric, a hand eyelet puncher and only 4 hours to make these high tops. Here are some of their results which look pretty good for a first try in only 4 hours:

Alright, so I went off and did some online (Google) research to find a high top pattern and I was not able to find any that weren’t £50 or over…

So if you end up finding one or making a pair of high tops, please let us know as we would love to see the results! 

Also if you struggle pressing those eyelets into the fabric, Sew In Brighton has an industrial eyelet puncher which saves you a whole lot of hassle and produces perfect eyelets every time. Just pop by to one of our ‘Stitch! General Sewing/Dressmaking Classes - any level/project’ to use it.

NEXT UP:

2. THE TRANSFORMATION CHALLENGE 

The Sewing Bees were given old netball kits (including netball bibs and sports tops) with the task to transform them into a glamorous day-wear garment. In order to make it a little bit more challenging, the garment needed to have some pleated elements in it. During this challenge, the judges are not in the room with the Sewing Bees so they don’t know whose is whose in the end, which makes it a bit more interesting. 

On your marks, ready gooo! 

Brogan’s winning dress for the challenge!

With only 1 hour and 30 mins at hand, this is a pretty impressive result! Even the judges were blown away by the details and imagination the Bees used to transform old netball bibs into a very wearable dress. Well done to Brogan!

So if you have any old bibs or sports shorts lying around at home, bring them to one of our Sewing classes and challenge yourself to make it into a night out skirt or nice headband. Who knows what the result will be?

3. THE MADE-TO-MEASURE CHALLENGE - Sports jacket

Each Sewing Bee is given a mannequin for the last event of the Sports week, they take their measurements and fit their choice of sports jacket pattern onto them. Pretty challenging hey! For this week’s task each Sewing Bee chose a sports personality that they admire and made a jacket inspired by their sports hero. Amongst their sports heroes, were Freddie Flintoff (cricket player), Nicola Adams (boxer), Serena Williams (tennis player) and Jain Kim (climber).

The sewers were given 5 hours to complete this task. Let’s see what they managed to put together (Personally, these were my favourites):

Gill’s jacket inspired by Nicola Adams.

Annie’s jacket inspired by Serena Williams.

Man Yee’s jacket inspired by Jain Kim.   

Marni’s jacket inspired by Heather Stanning.

And the winner was Marni! Maybe not a surprise at this point as Marni has been acknowledged as a pretty good and spot-on sewer - yet still a well deserved win 🏆

So what does Sew In Brighton have to help you create amazing garments and increase your dressmaking skills to Sewing Bee level (so you can apply to be in it next year!)?

OUR NEW Tailored Jacket course is up and going!

The idea is to make yourself a modern, tailored lined jacket that fits you beautifully and have the pattern to take away to use again and again - as is or tweaked to different shapes and styles and in a variety of fabrics. 

We also have a huge range of workshops and courses in sewing and dressmaking for all levels including complete beginners to sewing - view them here (https://www.sewinbrighton.co.uk/viewclasses).

A new blog post will follow each week’s episode of the Great British Sewing Bee, so stay tuned for some more content and sewing inspiration!

See you next week and until then sew, sew away….

Browse Sewing and Dressmaking Courses and Classes here: (https://www.sewinbrighton.co.uk/viewclasses)

Browse free sewing tips and tutorials here: (https://www.sewinbrighton.co.uk/viewclasses/cat_1650825-Video-Lessons-Advice-Sessions.html)

3th May 2022

THE GREAT BRITISH SEWING BEE IS BACK!

Written by Claire Nilles, Marketing Assistant at Sew In Brighton Sewing School and Improver level self-taught sewer

Knock knock, it’s Season 8 of the Great British Sewing Bee! And guess what, I will be providing you with the necessary ins and outs of each week’s challenges so you can level up your sewing skills and maybe just maybe be the next Sewing Bee.

Are you up for the challenge? So let’s dive straight into it!

This year’s 12 contestants.

EPISODE 1: CAPSULE WARDROBE

This week’s theme was CAPSULE WARDROBE. And for anyone like me who has sewn a few bits and bots, but is absolutely not familiar with any technical terms. Here is a quick glossary of the term:

“a small collection of clothes that can be put together in different ways and includes everything you would normally need to wear”  Cambridge Dictionary

CHALLENGE 1 - The Pattern Challenge: A WOOL MINI SKIRT WITH 2 FRONT PIPED PATCH POCKETS

The first challenge of this week’s episode was a wool mini skirt with piped pockets at the front and an exposed zip at the back. 

This is contestant Angela’s skirt with self-made piping for the 2 front pockets.

NOW the big question is how can you make one (or a similar) mini skirt? Here is all the information you need to bring this week’s challenge to your home or local sewing school.

What you will need to make your very own summer mini skirt or maybe a little longer skirt:

• Fabric* (new or old, as upcycling is always an option!)

*See your pattern for amount you need and always wash and iron fabric before cutting out if you plan to wash rather than dry clean the final garment (follow washing instructions on fabric, ask in shop if unsure)

• Sewing machine & thread

• Pattern or a skirt that you can replicate with some new fabric

TIP!

Here is an important tip from Kat (experienced sewing teacher and owner of Sew In Brighton) when sewing with wool. If you are trying to make your mini skirt with wool fabric it is important to add some lining to the inside of your skirt. Any lining is good here - polyester, rayon, cotton. If you are wearing tights you don't want cotton, as this rides up, so people usually use a slippy lining like polyester which is readily available.

 Here are some pattern examples to get you started making skirts: 

1. Child’s Party Skirt (GBSB free pattern)

LEVEL of difficulty: BEGINNER (Sounds like the perfect project even for myself! I might have a go next week at the sewing classroom and see where it will take me 😁)

This is not the same pattern as the Sewing Bee Challenge skirt, but it is an easy skirt to get you sewing if you have not made any clothes from scratch before. It involves the minimum of fitting, has no pockets and has elastic for the waist - this is a great waist elastic you could use for this skirt from Prym which which also makes great belts (super simple make, with a buckle like this) - comes in many colours

Here is the link: https://www.thegreatbritishsewingbee.co.uk/sewing-patterns/childs-party-skirt . It's a FREE pattern provided that you can download and print at home or get printed and posted to you inexpensively at Fabulosew.com

2. Reed Skirt Grainline Studio Sewing Pattern

LEVEL of difficulty: Improving Beginner

Although labelled as Beginner, this seems more like Improving Beginner Dressmaker level pattern. I would say try making a simple garment like the first skirt above initially if you have no or little experience in sewing. Or just jump in with this one and take your time and get help from one of our teachers if needed.
n.b. If you're completely new to machine sewing, learn the basics first and get confident by sewing a simple bag or cushion. If you need a hand and live near us in Brighton and Hove, check out our Beginner classes and courses here

Here is the link for the pattern: https://www.sewessential.co.uk/reed-skirt-grainline-studio-sewing-pattern-12002 

Is this is something you are interested in making but you don’t have a sewing machine at home or you need a hand fitting the pattern and deciphering the sewing instructions? If so you book onto one of our weekly Stitch! General Sewing and Dressmaking Classes in Brighton and Hove (East Sussex, UK) if you live nearby or fancy a day trip to Brighton beach.

Head to sewbtn.com/bookstitch so you just see availability for Stitch Classes for the next couple of weeks. Our teachers are very keen to get you going with your very own project and help you every step along the way to finalise your skirt in time before the summer hits Brighton. 

Also for anyone new who just happened to stumble across this blog post, if you join our mailing list here you will get discounted codes, including SAVE 15% on your very FIRST Sewing class at Sew In Brighton.

CHALLENGE 2 - Transformation Challenge 

Lockdown Loungewear

The idea was to transform any old loungewear piece into a night-out top. This is a sustainable way of upcycling any of your old clothes and giving them a fresh purpose. I always find it extremely rewarding if you have an old pair of trousers that don’t fit anymore and you can repurpose it by making a pair of dungarees out of them (just throwing some ideas around here). 

DIY OVERALL JUMPSUIT from jeans:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJ9Ib7uhfvE 

CHALLENGE 3 - Made to measure

Wrap Dress

Generally speaking, wrap dresses are a go-to sewing dress as they are easy to fit to anyone’s body shape. What might be the trickiest part however are necklines and hemming the dress. Therefore I would say this is for Intermediate Sewers who have had some experience sewing dresses before. Nevertheless, it could be fun as a personal challenge to see if you can nail those necklines and create a piece that you can add to your Capsule Wardrobe :) 

1. Misses and Petite Wrap Dress Simplicity Sewing Pattern

Level of difficulty: Intermediate

Here is the pattern:

https://www.sewessential.co.uk/misses-petite-wrap-dress-simplicity-pattern-8735-39193

In case you want to jump onto the weekly Sewing Bee challenges, keep reading this blog each week as we will update it and I’ll see you next week.

AND MAYBE WE WILL SEE SOME SEWING BEES AT OUR SEWING CLASSES! 

View all our sewing and dressmaking classes, courses and workshops, held in Brighton and Hove here www.sewinbrighton.co.uk/viewclasses (we also offer Zoom 1-2-1 lessons if you're elsewhere in the world). 

Do get in touch with any questions at https://www.sewinbrighton.co.uk/contactushere.html

Sit down with a cuppa and get stuck into Paul Bally’s next installment of sewing adventures. Check back for more updates, this post will be updated with new content every week.

14th September 2021

So today I wanted to get on with the hoodie, I’d cut the tissue pattern down a bit... well lobbed off the seam allowance and hoped for the best! Unfortunately this sent Kat into meltdown as what I didn’t realise that this is a common mistake with newbies and it makes the whole pattern become an odd shape with the dots and notches needing to migrate in a certain way. Anyway after measuring, measuring and measuring again Kat guided me on how to fix this issue and by the end of it we were happy with the adjustments. So now for surprise number two of the class... I wanted the two front panels quilted with a pattern fabric, some wadding which I had spent the night before trying to split as it was way too thick and the backing. Kat asked was this in the original pattern, where did I see this or was it in my head? To which I replied “I’m obviously a dangerous designer and yes it’s a vision in my head”. Out comes the fabric and I’ve now got to pattern match, another skill with more measuring and planning. Anyway I didn’t have time for any sewing as the planning and adjusting was very intricate. Homework I decided to try out my new walking foot attachment. What I realised that after having second hand sewing machine’s that always played up I had an irrational fear of changing the feet! I took the screwdriver, undid the nut and replaced it... with no drama and it works like a dream! So my fear was down to not really knowing how to use my machine properly so thanks to the team over the weeks I’ve realised it’s nothing to be afraid of. I long stitched the three layers of fabric together and did a couple of panels through to hold the wadding but I went too fast so unpicked them and will do them again over the weekend.

9th September 2021

Mel took the class. I carried on with the toile and finished it while making notes on the calico fabric to transfer onto the tissue pattern later. I’d saved the trousers for Mel as she had been with me for a lot of it. We did the waistband. The sewing machine got angry with me and shuddered due to the amount of layers coming together at the back seam.

6th September 2021

Kat took the class, I needed a break from the trousers so I started to make a Toile. I had previously cut out the tissue pattern and used calico fabric, cut it out (on my new cutting mat) and took it in.

2nd September 2021

So before the lesson my 10 meters of calico unbleached fabric arrived, so as a good student I pre washed it on 40 degrees and a 1200 spin... omg it was so creased, it looked like a dust sheet! I cut off a bit and re-washed it with no spin and ironed it wet, still creased! It then took me over an hour to iron the rest of it as best I could, time I’ll never get back! Anyway I pinned and cut out the hoodie pattern with my new cutting mat and rotary cutter (panicking I’d end up in A&E with severed fingers). The class was nice and relaxed, the welted pockets were misbehaving but I’d not sewn down the flappy points. Prepared the belt loops, unpicked six holes, poked them through and re sewn over the original hem. Mel decided she couldn’t live with my mismatched centre seam (along with Kat) and even though I said you wouldn’t see it as it would be covered (trying to blag it again) she said she would always know it was there... so as I’m a fan / professional at unpicking I whipped out my tool and well, undid the seam again! Why do it once when you can do it again, as my dad always used to say doing DIY.

31st Aug 2021

Feeling like I’m back at school this morning waiting for the teacher to mark my work lol!

My model came with me to model the trousers and Kat said how nice they were looking! Phew!The waistband was the same tricky explanation, didn’t fit properly and the instructions wanted some crazy stitch and push through belt strap that we all agreed was going to be impossible to do with most suit trousers fabrics. Kat also has a new teacher with her and they went into problem solving mode to work out what had happened, whipped out a ruler and found the offending centimetre! Couple of repair stitches (forgot to tie them off) and a pin/ stitch top layer of waistband was on. Little buckle in the seam so will unpick this later and re do tonight. Before the end of the lesson I asked Kats advice on my next project as I want to use a fabric with a nap (direction of fur, fluff, cord or something like that) and want to incorporate some quilting techniques for a sport’s hoodie. I feel after these two technical pieces I need something quick, simple and bright. (the shorts will have to wait as the weather has gone cloudy and cold) Lots of pics etc, thank you for today! Really enjoying the difficulty level.

26th Aug 2021

Love these evening stitch classes! Had Phil again tonight. These suit trousers are proving to be a bit complicated (for me anyway) I did the seams to close the leg and the bottom area. At last some easy seams! Well my excitement and joy didn’t last long as my model (my partner) said “hmm., they are a bit baggy, they feel a bit like a boiler suit!” As the tears started to well... not really, I just took a sharp pin to the inside leg! I didn’t have the heart to tell him he has a suit jacket on the horizon! Phil was so professional and guided me to where to adjust for homework, showing me how to pin and mark on the inside and how to take the measurements. Homework was done over the bank holiday, I had to get this “boiler suit” image away. So after various seams these trousers went from boiler suit to riding jodhpurs to fashionable skinny leg! Making clothes is like the most difficult jigsaw puzzle, I think the meaning of life would be easier to solve. Anyway hopefully I’ve done the adjustments ok ready to do the waistband?

25th Aug 2021

The welted pocket saga continues! Mel had the pleasure again today. I’m sure the teachers secretly hope I've finished all the complicated bits lol! Anyway with lots of cutting, folding, unpicking, flipping, ironing, squishing, the welted pockets are done! Thank you to all that were involved!

24th Aug 2021

Naomi today, full class with lots going on. It was quite technical with lots of matching up dots, Taylor tacos and notches? Welted pockets are on the menu today. I'm glad as I enjoy all the difficult bits of sewing, I think I am becoming obsessed with the construction of clothes! Most of the lesson I was confused, in a good way. Her words of advice were, “ it’s like magic when it’s done, but until you get there it’s hard to work it out” I’m sure Kat said something similar a couple of days ago.

23rd Aug 2021

Just three of us today, which was just perfect as Mel had time to breathe and even lend a hand at unpicking, which I was truly grateful for. I feel I’m an expert in unpicking! I was attaching the zip today, the excitement of using a different presser foot was exhilarating! All these years I have struggled with the regular foot, not getting close enough to the zip and there was a specific foot for it! Again lots of pinning, folding and praying and voila, it is central.

19th Aug 2021

Today was slippy lining fabric day! This was to make the pocket lining/ bag/ sack. This gorgeous deep blue fabric is testing my patience, it is very floaty and likes to Frey. The stitch length needed to be adjusted to a longer one as it was pulling a little. Once you know this, sewing becomes enjoyable again.

18th Aug 2021 

So, update on the shirt, I’ve completely messed up the button holes at home!!! I’m still getting used to my new machine (I take it to class also) I thought I’d marked them correctly, did a test one and thought let’s do this and put the shirt in the opposite way and we’ll out of seven attempts only two were where I wanted them… have you ever tried to unpick a button hole? Me neither lol! 

Anyway, rather than deal with unpicking I’ve started a new project, suit trousers. (The shirt is finished but the presentation will be later.) 

Today Kat was in, I apologised before we started that I didn’t understand the instructions to which she replied “oh don’t worry you just have to read them slowly”.

Well after a few attempts she agreed that this was going to be difficult. She did make me laugh saying these “squiggles” here are “air” !?! I mean that wasn’t in the key code! Air!!! 

So, this piece numbered 21 (with the air behind it) was actually a tiny pocket on the front waistband. Now that we know it’s a pocket the instructions seem really clear now!  

As Kat said “don’t worry if it doesn’t make sense, it will all be revealed” I’m sure these sewing pattern manufacturers do this on purpose (or I’m just being stupid) 

Again, I loved the class, there was one lady using the serger overlocker, and she was sewing like a true professional. When I grow up I want to be as good as her! And yes I’ve put this machine on my Christmas list also! 

After the class I popped into Brighton to C&H fabric store to pick up some lining for the trouser pockets and Gutermann thread. Washed and dried the material ready for the next class tomorrow! 

5 tips for sewing denim

On the face of it you might think that sewing denim is going to be really tricky. And that’s largely because some of the properties of denim make people think it’s a really stiff material that doesn’t like to be altered or repurposed. But the good news is that doesn’t have to be the case. In fact, once you know to approach it, denim is fairly easy to work with. Here are our five top tips that will make your next denim project a whole lot easier.

https://unsplash.com/photos/5pknRFJwXb4

1.Prep and planning
The first step when sewing denim is to do your preparation and planning. For starters, make sure the material is the right size, weight, colour, etc. for what you want to do. Then, pre-wash to check the degree of shrinkage and colour run. Familiarise yourself with the grain direction to avoid twisting when you work with it. Finally, get your workstation set up with the equipment you’ll need.

https://www.pexels.com/photo/blue-denim-pants-219633/

2. Get the right needle
While denim is fairly easy to work with, it does require the right needle. A standard sewing needle is probably not going to cut it, as it won’t be strong enough for the job.  Ordinary universal domestic machine needles in a size 14/90 may be fine for light and medium weight denims such as the 10oz denim we suggest for lining our Face Mask in our free tutorial (sewbtn.com/mask).  Properties of denim, such as its toughness and durability, mean that a specialist denim needle is the more often the right choice for heavier denim. These needles are a lot sharper and stronger, and will help puncture the material more easily. Once you’ve used a denim needle for the first time it’ll quickly go on your list of favourite sewing tools.

https://www.pexels.com/photo/white-singer-sewing-machine-783590/

3. Use a strong thread
Just like you need a strong needle, the same goes for the thread, particularly when it comes to thicker seams. For sewing denim use a good quality branded polyester sewing thread such as Gutermann, Coats or Moon.  We find thin and strong is the ideal combination, as it’s usually easier to keep the stitch neat versus a thicker thread. Topstitching is great for reinforcing seams, and using a longer stitch of around 3mm is ideal when you’re sewing through multiple layers.  Use an ordinary weight thread on the bobbin when topstitching with a topstitch weight thread, otherwise it can be tricky to get a good tension between top and bottom thread. Also check your needle eye is big enough for the topstitch thread to fit through.

 https://unsplash.com/photos/jNKv4QohAk0

4. Always use sharp scissors
You don’t just need sharp scissors to cut through strong denim because it’s tough; you also need them because denim frays and snags easily. So a sharp edge will give you a much cleaner cut. It seems like an obvious thing to say, but don’t be tempted to keep on cutting if you feel a snag. Switch to better cutters or sharpen the blades – you’ll be glad you did in the long run.

https://pixabay.com/photos/jeans-tape-measure-fabric-scissors-2406521/

5. Go with heavy duty closures
Finally, the buttons, poppers and zippers. The key here is to use strong closures, as denim is a strong material. If the closure is too weak for the fabric it’ll lightly pop off or open up at some point – which could be embarrassing! This is certainly the case with heavy denim, whereas a regular button might work ok on lighter denim.

And that completes our top five tips for sewing denim. Put them into practice the next time you take on a project and let us know how you get on.

View our Stitch Classes for help making or customising denim garments

 Images: pexels.com, pixabay.com, unsplash.com

Whether you're a complete beginner or an experienced sewer, sewing and knitting pattern designer Andrea Thomas of Experiemental Space needs your help with pattern testing!

We 'met' Andrea on Instagram, and were curious to find out more about her business. In our interview with her below we asked about her background in sewing and what she is looking for in regard to pattern testers.

How did you get into making and selling patterns?

I loved sewing but loved working out how to do new things & how the construction came together even more than just following a set pattern. Once I started planning my own designs, I wanted to make them available for others to sew as well. The thought of other people sewing up my designs was very exciting, and I was right! I’m always so happy to see someone’s Experimental Space make on Instagram. It’s even more rewarding when I hear the instructions taught them something new. I absolutely love that!

How and when did you learn to sew clothes?

I first learnt to sew when I was a kid but looking back at what I was able to do I’m not so sure that should count! I properly picked up a sewing machine and started to sew wearable things around 8 years ago. I started by reading books and watching YouTube. Quite a bit was just hands on learning while making a pattern, specifically indie patterns because the instructions were always so much more in-depth than the big pattern companies provided.

The illustrations on the front of your envelopes are fantastic, who does the illustration and where did you get the idea to do this?

Thank you! The idea originally came from my husband. At the time I was still working in software development with him and we mainly focused on the video games industry. Through that we knew lots of talented artists and he suggested I get in touch with one of them to see if she would be interested in working with me on this. She loved the idea and created the Evelyn and Casey artwork for me. The second artist, and one I still work with now, is also a character designer from the video games sector. She’s got this incredible ability to take my notes and pictures of the pattern and turn it into a beautiful scene for the covers.

Where do you work from to create your patterns?

Well it’s changed quite a few times over the years! I started off at home, then moved into a little workshop, then back to home as of last year, and shortly I’ll have dedicated studio space in the garden. I’m very excited about that! The new space will let me have all of my materials more accessible and give me the room to do more video creation which is something I’ve been eager to get started on.

What kind of patterns do you create?

I create patterns for women’s clothing. Until now it has been focused on tops, but I do have lots of ideas for trousers and coats that I’d like to see come to life. I also have an interest in expanding into some home items and simple menswear but haven’t dedicated much time to those yet.

What is your best-selling pattern?

My best-selling pattern is the Evelyn Blouse. It does vary depending on the season (for example, Casey sales are increasing as we get into winter. People want a cosy sweater this time of year but overall, Evelyn sells through all the seasons. I think this is partially because of how easy it is to layer, so it can be worn any time of year!

Which patterns are you looking for testers for? Will you need tester for future patterns?

I am always on the lookout for more testers. Upcoming tests will be for new designs as well as the new size range for Evelyn, Josie & Casey. People seem to think they won’t be ‘good enough’ to test, but I need sewists of all experience levels. The sewists with limited experience help me know if the pattern will be easy to understand and follow, especially with techniques that they are trying for the first time. The more experienced sewists provide assistance on the fine tuning of the pattern and advice on adjustments. Everyone is able to contribute something, and I think it’s important not just advanced sewists are able to follow the pattern.

Click here to browse Sew in Brighton's range of courses and workshops for all levels of experience.

Are your sewing patterns available to buy on paper in envelopes as well as PDF downloads?

Yes, I’m very pleased to be able to say all of the sewing patterns are available in both PDF and Paper versions.

Are the PDF patterns tile patterns for sewers to print at home or can they send it to a printer which will print on one sheet?

Both options are included. When you buy a PDF pattern you can print it at home on A4 (US Letter for those in the states), or you can send the A0 file to a printer to receive it all on one sheet like you would in a paper pattern. I’ve recently bought a large format printer so you can now order your one sheet print straight from the Experimental Space website.

Do you just sew clothes, or do you make anything else?

One day I’m going to attempt quilting again, but until that day I pretty much stick to clothes when sewing.

If you're also interested in learning to sew clothes, home furnishings or gifts, book onto our Learn to Use a Sewing Machine course or our 'Stitch' Sewing and Dressmaking Classes

Are you looking to develop your skills further? We offer a great deal of courses and workshops, click here to book onto one that suits you

What is your favourite type of garment to make?

Favourite is a difficult one to narrow down! I think I’d have to say my favourite in regard to rewarding would be jeans. I wear jeans all of the time and love that I can make up a pair that will fit me perfectly. Really makes me wish I learned to sew jeans sooner so I could have skipped all those frustrating changing room moments!

How would you sum up the type of clothing that your patterns are for?

I try to design patterns that are easy to wear but with a bit of a detail or unique twist to them that adds interest. I want them to be real clothes that real people will want to wear on a daily basis.

Do people need any special sewing machine functions, tools or an overlocker to make clothes from your patterns?

No special tools are needed beyond a sewing machine. All of the steps in the instructions can be completed with a basic sewing machine. There are options to finish the seams with an overlocker if you have one, but it is never necessary. For example, a simple zig-zag stitch instead would be just fine. There are tools and machines that might make certain steps in your sewing easier or quicker, but as long as you have a basic sewing machine, you’ll be able to make any of my patterns without sacrificing quality.  

If you'd like to be a pattern tester for Andrea, Sign up on her website here!

Or view Andrea's instagram feed at @sewspace.

Class One: I've started a big project... A corset project! Corsetry has ways been something that has fascinated me and since picking up sewing I decided it was time to make one tailored to me.

                 

 

         

 

         

 

Class 3 and 4: My corset has been advancing swiftly now! All my pattern pieces have finally been fully adjusted and the pieces themselves have been cut. I also ironed interfacing to the satin pieces to give them some support as they are quite thin. 

 

                

 

                

   

And so it began... Sewing the pieces together! This part was quite daunting since the pieces have so many curved edges and I wanted to get it perfect. I moved very slowly at first, but my confidence definitely grew. I sewed the satin pieces first and by the time I reached the beige inner layer I was able to get them done in no time. And so both sides of theinner and outer layer have been sewn!

 

Next comes adding the boning... To be continued! 

 

 

Class 5: Now it's time to prepare for the boning channels! The boning channels are, of course, a vital part of the corset which gives it its shape and support. In order to create those my inner layer's seam allowances are ironed opened (this just makes it easier to sew later on). On the seam allowances I placed a black ribbon which will become a channel. For me, this requires many pins as the pieces are significantly curved and I don't want the ribbon moving about!

 

 

             

 

My first attempt was more like three until I could finally work out the best way to sew it. At first I tried to sew from the front of the piece in order to achieve nice straight stitching on the outside. However this meant that my sewing on the ribbon was not straight. This means that the bones (plastic, of course) would not have been able to fit in the channels. The ribbon is fairly narrow as well, so precision is key. In the end sewing directly on the ribbon was the best choice and my previous straight stitches on the outside didn't end up too badly after all. My stitches are green since I accidentally bought so much green thread it would feel like a shame not to use it!

 

The most difficult part was the seam of the most front pieces for the bust. It is so heavily shaped that I ended up having to move at a snails pace just to get it done! In the end I almost finished one side of the corset in terms of channels. Next time will be much quicker!

 

 

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 "It's fair to say I'm happy that only one of the two layers has boning in it!"

 

Class 6: Oh dear, we're going into lockdown again! So I am sad to say my corset will not be continuing for quite a while, especially since I'll hopefully be able to travel back home for December! But I am delighted to have been able to attend a final lesson before my long break from Stitch Classes.

 

First I did a quick try on and Mel helped me by pinning the back panels to the size where the lacing would be appropriate. Then I gently cut off some extra excess from those back panels and folded the two layers inwards 2cm. I then carefully top-stitched the pieces together with a very small seam allowance.

 

To get it ready for eyelets (and lacing) I needed to give it some extra stability with, you guessed it, some more boning! The boning needed to be very narrow to leave enough space for the eyelets, and none of the pieces were quite the right size. Luckily they are only plastic so I was easily able to cut one piece in half and sew it in. I did this the same way I did the busk pieces by sliding the boning in between the two layers and the using a zipper foot to get as close to the edge of the bone as possible and secure it in place.

 

   

 

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Next comes the binding over the top. To make this easier I machine-basted the edges of the corset closed (like tacking but by machine) before attaching the binding. This way I don't have to worry about the pieces sliding around while I try and add binding as well! Then I managed one half of one binding... I have to wait a while to even get that done now! It's a shame that the Online Stitch Classes  Sew In Brighton is running during lockdown won't logistically work for me, I guess I'll have to be patient...

 

To be continued! 

 

 

If you would like to coming along to sewing classes during lockdown and beyond, checkout our online classes here

 

Check back here weekly for updates on Annie's corset-making journey!

 

Would you like to have a go at making your own corset?
If so, find out more about our corset making project here and book online to our Stitch Classes or One-to-One Lessons.

 

 

We spoke to talented textile artist, Anna Liversidge, who teaches our beautiful embroidery workshops to find out more about her inspirations and top sewing tips for students.

How long have you been doing embroidery for? 

I began with machine embroidery at Art college in Barnsley 1994. I didn't delve into hand embroidery until 2004 when asked by my agent to add some to the designs I was creating for children’s wear. 

What was your inspiration behind doing embroidery?

As an art student I had a lot of trouble finding my medium. I was initially drawn to ceramics and jewellery, but they weren't a good fit. Textiles seemed really boring to me, having grown up with women dressmaking at home, it seemed like women's work, and not something exciting. I avoided the textile department, until a compulsory machine embroidery workshop. On the day I groaned, looking forward to it being over. To my surprise I fell completely and instantly in love with it. The speed, and possibilities, mixing of fabric and thread was so exhilarating. I soon bought my first sewing machine as I was completely addicted.  

What do you find most exciting to teach?

 I love teaching machine embroidery on water soluble fabric. The results are quite fast, and it feels very magical to watch the fabric vanish leaving only the threads. It's both a simple and complex process. I can teach a beginner to get a good result the first time, it's all about connecting the threads enough. Though the complications arise in trying to make something look a specific way, as the results are rarely predictable, even after many years of practice.

What materials do you work with? And which is your favourite to use?

For machine embroidery I use rayon threads, which have a beautiful shine, I mix them up with cotton threads for contrast. When I'm not using water soluble fabric, I mostly use cotton organdie and other transparent fabrics. I love the ghostly feel this creates. For hand embroidery I use fine linens mostly and hand dyed threads by paint box threads. I like to mix up the thicknesses and create texture and contrast, so I will use wools, cottons, metallics and even the machine emb rayon. If I had to choose a favourite - cotton organdie, it's very expensive, transparent, smooth but has some stiffness to it which creates substance, and it takes paint beautifully.   

What is the easiest skill to start with for beginners?

The easiest skill for beginners is most definitely hand sewing. I'd say get hold of some simple cheap calico or cotton and start with the basic stitches. I don't use any complex or decorative ones. Apart from occasionally fly stitch (which looks like a bird foot - a V with a line beneath) I mostly do everything with running, straight and back stitch, which anyone can do. I just play with them and layer them up. Slow stitch, and basic darning are very popular now.

Do you have any sewing tips for students?

I'd say keep it simple and be playful, see what happens. I was never formally taught hand embroidery, but I can do a lot with very simple stitches. I've taught a few students who had bad experiences at school which put them off. They have enjoyed my classes as my motto is there are no mistakes, things can be unpicked, stitched over, and there is so much to learn from happy accidents. Unless you have to sew very neatly as a seamstress - have fun and see where it takes you. 

How much of your life do you spend on embroidery? Is it easy to fit in around your day-to-day life?

It goes in patches, sometimes many hours, other times little. Though I am always happiest when my hands are at work making. In the last year or so I have moved into more fine art textiles, so I am drawing more, and painting, and using stitch too. It is easy to fit into daily life. With machine work I can be working on a large piece and do short sessions through the day. I always carry a piece of fabric with me which I sew by hand when I'm out and about or waiting around. I find it soothing and relaxing, and it brings me into the present moment. 

Are you currently working on any personal projects?       

 I am working on a new piece which will be part of a solo exhibition I am planning to have in a couple of years. I've been very inspired by seaweed and its textural qualities. Walking by the sea daily I get to soak it all up. The last piece I made was in graduated pinks and suspended on pins, which created shadows. This piece is called The Darkness, and will be made up of layers, and using very dark, moody colours. I've not worked in this way before, and am interested to see how it develops...

Our next embroidery workshop takes place on SATURDAY 31^st OCTOBER 2-6PM. If you’re interested in participating, click here to book your place. Anna is also available for one to one lessons on anything mentioned in this blog post.

Anna’s work and designs can be found on her Instagram page: @annaliversidgeartist

We sat down with our lovely teacher Laura to find out what she likes to sew plus a few sneaky tips...

Laura has been teaching at Sew In Brighton for many years - a whole range of courses including Patchwork & Quilting, Replicate Your Clothes, Applique & Free Machine Embroidery plus general sewing & dressmaking in our Stitch Classes. We love Laura for her warmth, humour, kindness & care she takes of each & every student (and us at Sew In Brighton!)

What do you enjoy most about teaching sewing at Sew In Brighton? 
The students! 

What's your favourite sewing technique or skill either to teach or to do yourself? 
I think free machine embroidery is really fun and usually when students learn how to do it they get really into it, which is lovely!

Do you have one sewing tip to share that you think really speeds up or revolutionises people's sewing in some way? 
I'd say choose the best fabric you can afford. Feel the fabric before you buy it.  In the fabric shop unroll a bit and see what it looks like from a distance and even hold it in front of a mirror. It's all about the fabric for me. 

What sort of things do you sew yourself, either for you or to sell?
When I have time to sew for myself I like making clothes and altering bargain finds from charity shops. I also make bags and small accessories from recycled fabrics which I sell through Appendage in Kensington Gardens. 

What's the most amazing/your favourite thing you ever made and why?
I have a turquoise silk velvet coat that was a really tricky fabric to sew but it makes me happy every time I wear it!

What was the first thing you ever sewed in your life and how long ago was it? 
Well, in 1972 I was 12 and my Mum helped me make a pair of corduroy flares. Really flared!

What are you making next for yourself? 
My wardrobe is missing a red dress. Why don't I have one? Maybe that is next. 

What is your wish for students who come to your classes?  Either for their experience at Sew In Brighton or in their future. 
Most importantly I hope they have fun and enjoy the experience. Secondly I hope they feel inspired and more confident to carry on sewing at home. 

Laura will be teaching Thursday morning Stitch Classes from Dec 18-Mar 19.  She also teaches Sew a Rucksack workshop, Replicate Your Clothes, Sew a Coatigan in a Day, Hen Parties and 1-2-1 lessons

Check out her designs on Instagram: @one.off.brighton

Boiled wool is our favourite trend for Autumn! The amazing thing about this fabric is you can cut and leave the edge and it won't fray.  We've used it here to make our easy to sew Coatigan for our new workshop.  This is a throw-it-over-anything garment that's so versatile to wear, you'll want to live in it all season!  

I wanted to recreate the style of the dress in the picture on the right but wasn't sure where to start.  I've done a bit of sewing before in the past but that was many years ago and I wanted to do something creative again. I love the 1940's style and it's hard to find vintage garments in my size, so making my own clothes was the perfect solution!

I started my project in January 2018. I came to the first lesson with Kat in Sew In Brighton's Stitch! General Sewing & Clothes Making Classes in Hove. These are on several times a week so I could fit them round my personal schedule. I arrived with with just:

• a picture of what I wanted to make - a 1940s style day dress. It had a side button detail (that you see in the illustration above on the right). I'd printed it from Pinterest
• some calico
• and lots of trepidation!  However I was made very welcome and first day nerves were soon dissipated in the friendly, cosy atmosphere of the Sewing Lounge.

Stage 1 - 21/03/2018

I have been wanting to make my own wrap dress for a while now and with spring/summer approaching I thought there’s no better time than now.  I have chosen dress style C from the Butterick B5030 Pattern.  After looking at few patterns, this one appealed to me the most as it has six different versions of the dress which gives the flexibility to cater to different styles.  In particular, dress C was the closest to what I was after.

I decided not to cut the pattern supplied directly as I wanted the option to make the different versions/sizes in the future.  So I measured my waist, bust, high bust and nape to waist before selecting my pattern size.  I then compared my measurements to the pattern and chose the appropriate sizing. After tracing and cutting the pattern I did a tissue fitting with help from Kat.  A few adjustments later and it’s now ready for fabric cutting!

Leigh-anne has been coming to classes for exactly a year today, and has now secured a job at Alma's Alterations in Brighton, congratulations! She also has an Instagram feed showing her sewing journey @madebylaluk

Alison Campbell runs Marble Moon Kidswear shop on Etsy. She learnt to sew at Sew In Brighton sewing school. We caught up with her to find out all about her business!

How and why did you first get interested in sewing?

As a child, I used to cross stitch with my mum and later, as a student, I wanted to customise my own clothes. I would buy fabric I loved from Birmingham Rag Market but I never managed to fully realise a garment as I was just improvising, although there were some interesting “no-sew” attempts! I bought myself a sewing machine when I was pregnant with my first daughter, and I managed to teach myself how to run up a baby blanket following You Tube tutorials but I always felt something was holding me back from really progressing. When I finally had the time and money to take proper sewing lessons with Kat that’s when things really took off!

We've been having a lot of fun this year, teaching students how to copy their favourite clothes in our popular Replicate Your Clothes workshop and in our weekly Stitch Classes. It's such a handy skill to be able to recreate a much loved garment!  
Check out our gallery to see what students and teachers have been replicating so far this year...

Kat replicates her favourite Hennes vest top	Kat's vest top replicated!
Yael replicated her off-shoulder top in Laura's Stitch class on Thursday evenings	Romaine replicates her favourite vintage dress in Stitch Classes
Concentration! On the last workshop View next Replicate Your Clothes workshops	Skirt all pinned down and ready to trace off...
Agy's orginal Coatigan....	...and her copy - half made so far but looking good!
Janet concentrating hard on copying her linen tunic...	..and checking the measurements match...
This was Janet's original tunic....	...and this is her nearly finished copy!
Richie replicating his Oxford bags in Stitch Classes	What an earth is this garment part?? It's a sleeve!

If you'd like to make a brand new version of a much loved item of clothing for yourself, we teach this skill in any Stitch Classes or on the Replicate Your Clothes regular workshops.
Find out more about our replicating clothes courses here